Garden Planning

At the Hub, we revel in the excitement of planning for the coming garden season, especially during the cold months of January, February, and now into March!  As we map out and plan our own community gardens, we offer in-pantry demonstrations on garden planning and mapping, as well as multiple Garden Planning workshops. 

The first step in garden planning is to know your zone, as well as the plants that thrive during each part of the growing season.  We like to share information about the needs of different plants, and an essential part of the planning process is knowing the difference between plants that need warm soils, and those that prefer cooler weather.  Many wait to plant a garden until May, missing the opportunity for all the cool weather veggies that love early spring in Indiana.  See our Cool and Warm Seasons Crop Chart to start planning your garden!

Starting Seeds Indoors

 Daydreaming about your summer garden in the midst of winter's last weeks? 

No need to wait to get started! The last weeks before spring are a fantastic time to begin planning your garden and getting seeds started inside. Crops with a longer maturity date benefit from indoor starting, which can help counter a shorter growing season than may exist outdoors. So do plants that enjoy cool spring weather when fully grown, but need more warmth to germinate than winter provides. Not to mention, starting seeds inside can be a lovely way to experience some greenery without having to wait on the weather. 

Here's a helpful how-to and some troubleshooting tips that will lead to good health in your seedlings, which will in turn lead to stronger plants once they're moved outdoors. 

How to Start Seeds Indoors

1. Collect the materials necessary for starting seeds - pots, soil, seeds, light, warmth, water and a fan. First you'll need pots or containers. The containers can be anything, so long as it provides roughly 3 inches of depth, and has holes in the bottom for drainage. 
2. For soil, try to use a potting soil mixture, which is lighter than garden soil and will allow new roots to grow easily. Wet your soil to the dampness of a wrung out sponge before planting, and then fill your containers to the very top, to provide as much room for root growth as possible. 
3. Sow your seeds. Most seeds should be buried to a depth of 2 times the diameter of the seed - thus small seeds are close to the surface and larger seeds are buried deeper. 
4. Once your seeds are covered with an appropriate amount of soil, water them thoroughly with a gentle sprinkle of water, careful not to disturb the seeds. As the days pass, water your seedlings wen the soil feels dry to the touch. 
5. Jot down the type of plant and variety somewhere on your container, to remember which starts are which later into the season. 
6. Place the containers somewhere warm indoors to germinate - most seeds require 60-70 degrees to germinate, or specify otherwise on their seed packet. 
7. Once your seeds germinate, sunlight is very important. A sunny window will do, or a fluorescent shop light with plant grow bulbs. The light should be suspended 2 to 4 inches above the seedlings, and on for roughly 16 hours a day. 
8. Set up a fan to lightly move air around your starts. This helps to reduce the formation of harmful fungus in the soil, and also encourages tougher stems, making for stronger plants - a little training for the real world! 
9. When the seedlings have grown their first set of true leaves (3rd or 4th leaves to emerge), they should be fed with diluted liquid feed. At this time they can be potted up into larger containers if their initial pots are too small, or transplanted outside if the weather permits.

Still having trouble? Some common problems are...

• Poor germination: you could have used old seed, or seed that had been stored in poor (warm/moist) conditions. Some seeds take a very long time to germinate (celery takes 2-3 weeks). If your soil temperature is too cold seeds may remain dormant. Eggplant and peppers like 75 degree soil! If you have over watered the seed could have rotted. 
• Damping-off: When your seedlings grow normally and then drop over at the soil line they have most likely been attacked by this disease. To avoid this, always use a sterile seed starting mix and clean your containers between uses. Be careful not to overwater and keep a light fan on the starts to minimize the chances for this disease to develop. 
• Pot bound: If seedlings have been kept in a small pot too long, their roots will get crowded and start growing out the bottom of the container. These seedlings will become stressed and need to be transplanted into your garden beds, or, if it is too soon, they need to be potted into larger containers. Take care not to damage roots during transplanting1
• Too leggy (tall and weak): If your starts are spindly they may be growing with insufficient light. The plant is reaching for light. When transplanting leggy starts into the garden bed plant them very deep ("sink" them), most plants will form new roots along the stem working to make the plant more robust and productive. 
• Yellow or sickly looking seedlings: If your starts aren't looking very green they probably need to be fed more or watered less. Allow the mix to dry out, then feed and water with a liquid food at the appropriate diluted strength. 

Happy planting, and may all your seeds grow into beautiful and bountiful plants!

Seed Starting with Recyclables

Garden season is nearing, and with it the time for seed starting! In fact, at the Hub, we've already started some of our cold-hardy and 100 day crops, including leeks, onions, kale and spinach. While traditional plastic seed start containers and flats can be useful for this task in some ways, they can also be pesky. Popping transplants out of them can lead to root damage, and purchasing new trays or replacing broken ones can be expensive. 

Luckily there are other options - and you need look no further than your recycling bin to find them! 
Old lettuce containers, milk cartons, plastic bottles, and newspaper can take on a new life holding your seedlings while they germinate and grow ready to move outside. 

For cans, bottles, or containers, simply clean them well, make sure there are several, small drainage holes in the bottom, fill with potting soil, and plant your seeds! 

For easy transplanting (great for plants with fragile root systems, like peas!) try newspaper pots. Once the seedlings are ready for transplant, newspaper pots can be planted directly into the soil. Over time, the newspaper will break down in the soil, and your plant's root system will be able to push through and continue growing. Just make sure to use only non-glossy newspaper, as glossy ads will not break down as easily.


To make your own newspaper pots, follow these simple instructions...

You will need:

-       Newspaper sheets (one sheet = one seed starting pot)

-       A 10-15 oz. can or small mason jar

-       Potting soil and seed

1.  Fold a sheet of newspaper lengthwise to create a strip. Press along the folded edge. 
2. Set the can on its side at one end of the strip, with the base of the can about 2 inches up from the edge. Roll the newspaper around the can to create a cylinder.
3. Starting at the outer seam, fold the free end of the cylinder inward. Make three more folds inward to create the base of the pot, pressing firmly to make the folds as flat as possible.
4. Slip the pot off of the can or bottle. Starting at the outer seam, fold the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the pot inward to create a stable rim.
5.  Hold the pot with one hand, with some of your fingers on the bottom to keep it closed, and fill the finished pot to the top with moistened potting soil. Plant a seed into each pot, and if desired, place the pot onto a tray to catch any leaks that may happen during watering.
6.  Once your seeds have sprouted and are ready to be planted, simply place the entire newspaper pot into the ground! The newspaper will break down quickly, leaving your plant’s roots free to grow!

Sprouting Seeds for Fresh, Year-Round Goodness

Mung beans and sunflower seeds sprouting in the Hub kitchen

One way eat fresh local veggies year-round is to sprout seeds.  Sprouting seeds is the simple, quick and cheap.  Because of our need for these fresh "live" foods and the enzymes and healing properties these foods contain, it is encouraged that a variety of sprouting seeds be a part of every diet. These would include wheat and other grains, lentils, peas, beans, and small seeds like alfalfa, clover, radish, cabbage, broccoli, sunflower, etc.  It’s easy! 

We really enjoy the succulence of mung bean sprouts in stir fries and ramen noodles, and the spicy flavor of radish sprouts to liven up sandwiches.  You can purchase small amounts of seeds, beans and nuts in the bulk bins of our local grocery stores, and experiment to see which sprouts you like best in your household!

Supplies needed:
Sprouting containers. Use wide mouth quart jars for alfalfa and other small leafy greens; trays for beans and wheatgrass, as well as buckwheat or sunflower "lettuce."
*the Hub Tool Share has sprouting jars available to check out! 
Sprouting lids. (available at health food or preparedness stores), create your own out of cheese cloth or a piece of fiberglass screen to cover jar opening. (In dry climates, a piece of nylon stocking works well.)
Sprouting seeds. Any seed capable of growing into a plant will sprout.


Ready, Set, GO!
1. Sort and soak dry seeds. All seeds should be sorted, removing broken seeds and small pieces of debris. Place in a quart jar. Place sprouting lid or fabric (see suggestions above) over the top of the jar. If using fabric, secure with a jar ring or wide elastic band. Rinse seeds well, then pour off water and add soaking water-twice as much water as you have seeds. (Because of the excess salt in softened water, and the chlorine in city water, it is best to use purified water for soaking and rinsing.)
2. After soaking, pour off water and drain well. Whether you leave seeds in the jar or transfer to a tray, tipping the container slightly will help seeds drain better. Most failures at sprouting occur because seeds are not drained properly. (After soaking beans, pour onto sprouting tray and remove any seeds that have not expanded and are still hard; they will not sprout.) When no water drips from sprouts, roll jar so that most seeds coat sides of jar. To sprout in trays, spread seeds evenly, drain well, and cover with a lid or cloth to retain moisture and keep out light. Move to a warm (about 70°F) place and rinse with lukewarm water 2 times a day (or just often enough to keep moist, for small seeds like alfalfa) until sprouts have reached the desired length.
3. Harvesting. Any seed CAN be eaten when the sprout has pushed through the outer shell of the seed. Most grains, beans and larger seeds are best when the sprout is as long as the seed. For instructions on growing "lettuce," wheat grass, and long, fat bean sprouts, see Natural Meals in Minutes, pp. 84-85.
4. "Greening." When leaves have appeared on small seeds like alfalfa, and sprouts are about 1" long, place jar in a light place (not in direct sunlight) to "green" for 3-4 hours, allowing the chlorophyll to develop.

Store sprouted seeds in a covered container with paper toweling on the bottom and between layers. Use within 4-5 days. Sprouted beans and grains can be frozen for later use. Mung and soy beans that are sprouted to about 2" long turn limp when thawed, but can still be used in cooking. I put 2-cup portions of sprouted grains or legumes in quart zip-loc bags, force out excess air, then stack flattened bags in the freezer where they store well for 1-2 months.

Warm up your kitchen--bake bread!

Last week's single digit temperatures didn't phase us in the Hub Kitchen. With the ovens cranked up to 450F, and the classroom filled to capacity with eager bakers, we were plenty toasty all afternoon.

Our Guest Chef Alex Chambers shared his enthusiasm and know how for handling wet dough, and how to work sourdough bread baking into your weekly routine. We focused on slow-ferment, wet dough because it is easier to schedule around, doesn't required kneading, and delivers excellent flavor and texture (no-knead bread recipe). While it is very forgiving and great for beginners, the wet dough can be hard to handle and difficult to get used to, so we provided hands-on exposure.
After shaping and proofing, we popped our loaves into a hot oven, with a baking stone and a shallow pan of steam (for a crispy crust, and extra oven-spring).

Most of us imagine lengthy kneading sessions when we think of making yeast breads, and since kneading can be such a pleasurable part of bread baking, we offered that experience as well, along with recipes for traditional, enriched sandwich bread.



Our multi generational group enjoyed tasty samples, great conversation and each took home a warm, hand-crafted loaf of bread.

It's Fun and Frugal to Find Free Food

Often in the Youth Garden program, students will harvest & cook whole food snacks such as Kale chips, roasted veggies such as beets, parsnips and sweet potato.

Last Wednesday students from the MHC’s youth garden program prepared a meal using some of the sweet potatoes and kale they grew in the garden. As they prepared the food we talked about the differences between whole foods, minimally processed foods and overly processed foods. The students were asked to figure out how many whole foods they used to prepare the meal verses processed foods they used. The hope was that students would experience a tasty meal and recognize that eating whole foods actually taste great. Last we asked the students, “Why they thought it was important to eat more whole foods (real food) and less processed? The students soon began to share answer they had learned from previous weeks, “whole foods have more nutrients in them,” “whole foods give your body energy,”  “our bodies work harder to break down the processed foods,” and last, “processed food will not give you energy that lasts, but whole food will.”

As the students sat down to enjoy the meal they had prepared each student shared the things they were thankful for.  Several students included garden club, the garden and their worm bin to their list of thanksgivings.

The meal was a complete success! Everyone enjoyed all that was prepared with the exception of one student who said he doesn’t like anything that taste like tacos, but he liked everything else. Our meal consisted of Humus Tacos, baked sweet potato fries, Kale chips and an oatmeal apple crisp for desert. Look below for the recipes!

Terms they learned:

Whole food= A fresh grown or raised food that hasn’t been changed from its original form.

Example; Fresh vegetables, fruits, grains such as oats, and rye, eggs

Minimally processed food=a fresh food which has been changed or added to in order to preserve naturally

Examples; butter, milk, whole grain bread (debatable), organic yogurt, juices, cheese

Overly processed food= foods which have been changed a lot from their original form before they are cooked, or foods that have added chemicals or artificial ingredients.

Examples: cereal, most breads, crackers, frozen pizza, boxed mac and cheese, fruit roll ups, frozen prepared meals, fast foods

How many whole foods can you identify in our menu?

Taco Hummus

 Taco Seasoning Mix (spices, herbs and salt)

15oz Chickpeas

2 Teaspoon olive oil

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 Tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped (optional)

¼ cup crumbled queso fresco cheese

1.     Drain chickpeas, reserving liquid. In blender or food processor, place chickpeas, oil, lemon juice, Garlic and remaining 1 tablespoon taco seasoning mix and cilantro (optional).

2.     Cover; blend until smooth. Add reserved chickpea liquid, 1 teaspoon at a time, until desired consistency.

3.     Spoon humus into corn or flour tortilla, add a sprinkle of cheese and serve cold or warmed.

4.     Toppings idea’s (salsa, spinach, lettuce, tomato

5.     This dish is also nice as a dip with tortilla chips or in a quesadilla.

Sweet Potato Oven Fries

 3 large sweet Potatoes (peeled)

1 Tablespoon olive oil

¼ Teaspoon salt

1 Pinch of Black Pepper

Preheat oven to 400. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Peel sweet potatoes and slice into thin fries. Toss oil, salt and pepper in fries and mix well. Place fries in a single layer on cookie sheet and bake 20 to 25 min. or until fries reach desired crispiness. 

Cooking Kale chips

1 bunch Kale

1 Tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon season salt or regular salt

1.     Wash and spin Kale

2.     Line cookie sheet with parchment paper

3.     Tear Kale into small pieces, remove stems

4.     Sprinkle olive oil and salt over kale and toss to evenly coat

5.     Bake on 350 until edges are browning (10 min.)

APPLE OAT CRISP

As tasty as an apple pie, but much easier to make, and lighter in calories.

4 cooking apples, such as Granny Smith (or use 2 cups of frozen apple slices)

1/8 cup granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

A pinch of nutmeg

Topping:

1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (or half whole wheat)

1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

A pinch of salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 cup uncooked “old-fashioned” oatmeal

¼ cup finely chopped walnuts or pecans (optional)

Preheat oven to 375° F. Peel and thinly slice the apples. If using frozen apples, don’t defrost. Mix them with the granulated sugar and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon. Spoon them into a 9-inch pie plate and press them flat. Mix the flour, brown sugar salt, and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter or 2 knifes until the consistency of cornmeal. Stir in the oatmeal and walnuts. Sprinkle the topping over the apples; press into a flat layer. Bake for 35 minutes, or until the topping is brown and the apples are tender. Serve warm or at room temperature.